Adventures on the Canals of France ,Netherlands and Germany

Now it is getting close to the finish of our 2009 trip and it’s time to turn towards Kuikhorne where Gitty and Hans Moses have a very good marina called Eibersnest, they also speak English which is good for us. We left the boat there last year and were very happy.

DRACHTEN
From Stavoren we travelled across the Heegermeer to the Princes Margriet Canal, the major route North East. We reached Grou and turned off into the Pikmeer lake area and then up the Monniken Ee to Drachten as we needed to organise our train fare.

In Drachten we caught a bus to Groningen train station and bought our tickets with seniors and summer discount. We will be able to take a train leaving 9am from Veenwouden, 2k from Kuikhorne to Leeuwarden, then an intercity train to Rotterdam and then the High Speed Train to Paris Nord then to Charles De Gaulle Airport and arrive at the airport at 5.30pm.

PRINCINHOF
Now it is back to the boat and we cruised up to the Alde Feanen National Park and the Princenhof, a beautiful lake and channel area created from the days when Turf was dug and transported heating. The turf was dug out down to the sand level and created the marshy channels, the areas of deeper blue is where storms washed away the land in between the channels and created the lake areas which often have small islands. You can see from the pink lines on the map above over the next few days we crisscrossed the area. The red dots you can see are the Marrekrite moorings dotted all around the water edges and on island in the lakes.

The orange flag below is purchased for 10 euro from the Marrekrite non profit organisation who build and caretake the free Marrekrite moorings found all over Friesland.

Some are pontoons where you can’t get off of the pontoon onto land and others are grassed moorings which are nice for a longer stay. Usually the stay is for a maximum of 3 days and rubbish removal is also supplied but no water or power. The rubbish containers are removed by a very good system by barge and we were lucky enough to see one in action at one of our moorings. Each mooring has an identifying number and this can be used in case of a medical emergency so you can be found easily.

As we cruised down the channel to the lakes we saw a farmer moving to his paddocks on the other side of the channel, a bit different to driving the truck around the farm he needs a barge to move from field to field.

We had various types of scenery for our overnight stays and it is wonderfully serene. On this mooring we had a tree view and were fortunate to see fishermen come and check their nets in the morning. We have seen these fish netting poles all over Holland and it was good to see the action.

One of our night stays was on a pontoon mooring surrounded by rushes, thank goodness we had the mosi screen up so we had a good nights sleep. This is the view from our windows.

Time for breakfast or is it brunch, we usually don’t get up until 9.30 ish.

One day we went through this narrow channel and into a lake where kids were learning to sail.

Cruising along the outside channel of the Princenhof to another lake are we came across these homes what a great position they have.

Back down another channel and time for lunch and a swim. We passed this ferry used for taking people and bikes across the channel.

We stopped here for lunch along the side of the lake, each boat seen here is on a long pontoon suitable for about 20 boats. I think it must be busy here on weekends and holidays to have such a lot of room.

After lunch we go on to find a nice overnight stop. This family is doing it the hard way paddling across the lake with the kids having fun trailing behind.

We turned left down this little channel which is suitable for 1 metre depth. As it started to get more and more narrow I wondered what would happen if a boat came the other way.

As we came out onto the lake 2 small boats were coming into the channel, did we miss a sign saying one way only? !!!

Out to the lake and across to the island ahead.

We found a wonderful overnight stop on this mooring in the shade of the trees. A small boat come came by selling fish and icecreams, so it was fresh blackberries courtesy of Kevin and Magnums for dessert.

Next morning the garbage barge with a compactor pulled up to empty the bin. What a wonderful service.
EARNWALD
Leaving late we cruised into Earnwald the village on the edge of the Princinhof as we needed to charge the batteries, get some water and visit the Skutsje Museum. We tied up at the marina just down the road from the museum and asked if we could buy water and power while we visited the museum. They only charged 2 euro so the batteries got charged while we enjoyed ourselves at the museum.

We joined in a tour through the boat house, all in dutch but very entertaining and some great photos also.

The photos of the old Skutsje and the woman made me happy I wasn’t a boat owners wife in those days

These show the Skutsje racing, they are around 45 ton and 20 metres long. It was very exciting when we saw them racing on Langweer last year. They were originally made of wood but have been built from steel since 1900.

Diana and Arthur Dixon visited here a few months ago when they were building a Skutsje in the traditional way from wood. Volunteers have taken 5 years to build it and it was launched a few days before we arrived, I am looking forward to seeing their photos.

It was interesting seeing the patterns for the parts of the boat when they searched for the right shaped Oak trees in Denmark large enough for the ribs.

This Skutsje is called Aebelina built from plans of the 1861 Aebelina, shorter than the modern Skutsje as the locks in the 1800’s were shorter than they are today.

Time to go back to the lakes for the night and what a beautiful spot we found.
It was very hot so Kevin went in for a swim with his crocs on as it was only a little over 1 metre deep and the bottom was very muddy. Not for me, so fortunately just a little after the frantic floundering on the wall I got the camera and took the photo of Mr Beached Whale as he climbed out .

We met a lovely couple Betty and Ysrand here who gave us a history lesson about Friesland and answered all of the questions we had been wanting to ask someone. In the evening we were entertained by 6 hot air balloons floating in the distance.

Paradise always has a little demon and ours was the presence of the European Wasp, every time we got any food out, around they came for a visit. They seem to be all over, as this year we have had the same problem in any province we have visited. I guess the hot weather has increased the population The electronic swat is worth the 3 euro we paid for it and Kevin has become a very good hunter. I am glad we have been able to keep them out of Western Australia so far. It is a pity we can’t take an electronic swat home.

Next morning we walked around the little island making sure we kept to the path as it was marshy in the centre. There were lovely wildflowers along the way.

We left and travelled through the little village of Warten to Leeuwarden. A storm is brewing so we will stay put there tonight then go to Dokkum then back to Kuikhorne. You will notice the flag pole with the Ausralian flag on the front, in case you have wondered it is our measuring pole for the height of the small bridges which don’t open like the one you see here. We have 10 cm clearance so if this touches we have to quickly back off.

We had a big storm last night, very strong winds with thunder, lightning and heavy rain. From what we were told later it had been experienced all over Holland.

It was calm in the morning and back to nice warm summer weather so we travelled to Dokkum, on the way we saw these cute duck houses. What a lot of trouble someone has gone to.

Next stop was Dokkum to sort out our Lyca Mobile sim cards. They have changed providers to Vodaphone and we need to make sure the same system applies, using Lyca we can call Australia for 9 euro cents a minute to a fixed phone and can talk Lyca to Lyca for 18 euro cents for 15 minutes in Holland. As most of the Aussies have Lyca it is a good way to catch up cheaply. Also we can keep the same number and as long as we recharge within 9 months so it suits us perfectly.

Kevin went to the Motor shop for filters etc and came back with a new toy, a battery load tester and a hydrometer to check the batteries, so it was into the hole to check things out. The diagnosis was two batteries a little sick and fatigued and one is on the danger list.

At the VVV tourist bureau we got a Kabel Noord card for using the internet, you can buy cards for1 hr, 4 hours or 1 day, it is a good system and can be used anywhere in the harbour area.

After 4 months away we are starting to dream of what we are missing back in Aus, of course one of the things we don’t miss is the winter, having Spring and Summer twice a year is a great way to go.

We are missing the children and the grandchildren and doing family things with them. We miss our friends and having an easy conversation over a beer or wine. If we lived closer it would be wonderful to go home to see the kids and then come back.

We are starting to dream of using lots of hot water for a shower and no timers. Our shower on the boat is great and outputs plenty of water but water is usually limited to us being able to fill the tank often enough and the showers in the harbours are always timed so it is a rush to make sure you are not standing at the finish of your 50 cents still covered in soap.

We are also dreaming of a nice easy chair in front of the television. We don’t miss the tele as we have the laptop and DVD’s if we want to watch a movie. Maybe it is more peaceful not knowing of the problems around the world, but it would be nice to have some world news sometime or the weather report to see what the weather is for the next few days.

We miss walking into a supermarket and recognising what product we are looking for straight away, rather than having to translate a picture or a few words. Kevin is always busy trying out the different beers, cheese and chocolate and the labels are no worry to him but he is looking forward to an Emu Bitter.

My lettuce and herbs are just about finished for the season, once again they have been fantastic having them fresh for our salads. The Marigolds and Lobelia are still flowering after 3 months but I do miss the garden at home.

However, when we look out the front and back of our boat where we are moored here in Dokkum between the two windmills it reminds us of how much we love wondering where we will be and what we will see and who we will meet the next day.

For now it is back to Kuikhorne to pack up Courlis, pack and repack the bags and head for home and start the planning for 2010.

Bye for now

Joure to Stavoren
We arrived in Akkrum at the end of Sneek Week, ( a week long yacht racing festival which is a huge attraction for all of boating Holland) we were in Sneek last year and had a lot of fun.
After the quiet of the turf route it was quite a shock. The train bridge was opening and closing and boats were milling around every where (it is quite a site with the train lines on a turntable ) and after the train bridge was another opening bridge to wait for.

We cruised down the side of the Sneekermeer and into the channel leading to Joure.

JOURE
Arriving in Joure we found it very busy but found a nice mooring on the grassy area inside the harbour opposite the Orangerie which has very nice meals.

We were pleased to find Irene and Jan here again, we met Irena last year and once again it is a small world, Irena’s brother Henk lives in Perth and we met him and Marietta when we went back last year, we have some good photos to take back to Henk.

We stayed a few days as we wanted to visit the Museum which we missed last year. It is very interesting as Joure used to be the centre of the Clockmaker industry and Brass moulding and the Dowe Egbert Tea, Coffee and Tobacco factory. There are still three clockmaking businesses and the Dowe Egbert Coffee manufacturing in town, you can smell coffee when they are roasting.

The museum is a collection of buildings which used to be the brass foundry, and the Dowe Egbert warehouse. In the foyer of the museum we saw these old machines which were used by Dowe Egbert Coffee and tea makers to put tea and labels on the tea bags and to pack tea bags in cartons. We got a nice packet of herbal teas to take home. Museum

Kevin was interested in the brass foundry as there were the original moulds for making brass fittings and decorations for the clocks as well household brass such as drawer handles. I thought they were just artistic trays of pretty shapes until he showed me the racks of pattern trays and the finished articles. I suppose it was a nice change for him after visiting all of the Schlosses in Germany.

There were also a clockmakers workshop and many beautiful clocks.

We had a lovely dinner with Max and Geertje whom we also met last year and lots of fun trying to get the camera working on automatic and then running back for the photo. This one was the best we could get, I must have more practice. Kevin visited the factory where Max works as they build large buses.

While here we took a bus to Herenveen Train station to organise our train trip from Leeuwarden which is near where we leave the boat, to Rotterdam and then to Paris. The fare could be done on the net but to get the over 65 discount and holiday discount we needed to do it in person. Unfortunately we were told we would need to go to Leeuwarden about a 100 k away, so off we went there in the bus, however, once there we were told it could only be arranged in Groningen so we went back to Joure in our 2 hour ticket allotment. In Friesland during the school holidays they have a special where you can travel anywhere for two hours for 2 euro so it is a good way to see the countryside. Also in Summer a discount for travel is available.

STAVOREN
After a four days we left to travel to Stavoren on the Ijsselmeer as it was a town we hadn’t visited.

We have had wonderful summer, and for the last three weeks Friesland has had incredible weather without any rain. After travelling through many lakes each of them with sailing schools out with students in small yachts of all sizes and colours, they looked like colourful dragon flies darting about.

We arrived in Stavoren and were fortunate to find a little spot for Courlis right in the town with lovely grass and a backdrop of trees.

Stavoren has one of Friesland’s large pumping stations with 6 huge electric pumps which sends the water out into the Ijsselmeer when the level gets too high after a lot of rain.

This view has all the elements of Holland it is only missing the traditional windmill.

Ellen and Jan came over in their car from Hardervijk to visit us and have a BBQ. It was really fun, Ellen was born in Australia but came back when she was 4 yrs old, Jan says she still doesn’t sound really Dutch and we say it is because she learnt the best language first, none of those funny rrrrrr’s or throaty noises for us Australians.

Stavoren is a sailors paradise with lakes on one side and the Ijsselmeer on the other. The Stavoren C Class won the 2009 Skutsje race and we were invited to their prizegiving night it was good fun.

Wherever you look there are yacht masts, a good place to pick out what type of sailing boat you would like. This harbour had about 300 yachts and is one of five in the area as well as the town harbour where there are 30 or more big sailing barges.

View from our boat around part of the town harbour.

Of course it is not hard to find us we are one of a kind up here.

While we were here we took the Ferry across to Enkhuizen on the other side of the Ijsselmeer and while waiting we spoke to this couple going on holiday with their little baby in this bicycle buggy with his baby capsule on top of the camping gear and mum on her bicycle with full packs on the back. I suppose by now you can see I am fascinated with the different ways people have of transporting their children at home or when going on holiday when cars aren’t an option. Holland has a bicycle or buggy for all occasions from baby buggy, shopping buggy to touring bike to the wheelchair bicycle seen in the Drente story.

We had a very calm ride on the hour and a half journey across the Ijsselmeer and Kevin almost convinced me we could go across in our boat, until the next day when we were riding around the yacht clubs having a look and it was really windy with very choppy waves out their. No way am I going across.

ENKHUIZEN
We went to Enkhuizen to visit the Zuider Zee Museum, it is a village of about 60 or more houses, shops, a church, warehouses, a fishing village with fishing boat and smoking houses, which are all original and have been transported from towns all around what was the Zuider Zee area and re-erected here. Each of the buildings has a plaque and it is written in english also, which was a real bonus, telling the story of someone who lived in the house and the area the house was from.

It is an incredible site as it is like a real village in Holland with a windmill, cobbled streets, canals, a church, gardens with real vegetables and fruit trees and washing on the line and fields with breeds of sheep and goats from old stock and rabbits and fowls in yards.

In the fishing and smoking shed at the rear of this photo we had smoked herring served hot for 2 euro.

These photos are from houses originally from Urk, one was a house belonging to a widow who took in washing as her husband had died in the big 1883 storm. A young girl acting the part of her daughter was doing the washing and telling her story after the washing was hung across the pathways and the lawn, very authentic. Another house had the woman of the house telling her story as she showed us around the kitchen and cooked some herring.