May - June 2002 - Canal du Rhone a Sete and Etang de Thau to the Canal de Midi

Arles to Carcasonne

From Arles we turned west and took the Canal du Rhone a Sete passing through the Camargue to Aigues Mortes and along the canal following the Mediterranean to Sete. Now we are out of the river travelling is slower as the canals have a speed limit of 6kph. Also we can overnight alongside the canal which is very pleasant. We saw the wild horses and the bulls as the canal wound its way through the Camargue.We even had time to play a game of Boules along the way.




Our next stop was Aigue Mort and another lesson in history. This was where the Crusader's left on their journey to the Holy Land.






It was interesting to see the large hotels lining the mediteranean and the Flamingos in the lakes alongside the canal.


When we came into Frontignan we had to wait until the next morning to continue as the traffic bridge is only lifted twice a day to let boats coninue along the canal.

Now it was time to cross the Etang de Thau, a large lake which has oyster beds all around. The winds can be very strong so we were very glad when we saw the entrance to the canal de Midi.

Canal de Midi

The Midi is probably one of the most well known canals with many hire boat companies along the way. It was built in the 1600's to quickly move warships from the Mediteranean to the Atlantic. The banks are lined with trees and many small villages along the way.



At Beziers we experienced the ladderlock. We lined up with other boats while we waited our turn to proceed uphill by the way of 7 locks joined together. It is quite an experience for the boaters especially for the first time and many land based tourists come along to see the boats go up or down as the case may be.






We found a barge moored alongside the canal where you could buy wine of the regions along the Midi. We sampled and bought a few bottles of good wine and also filled a plastic flagon of wine from the barrel which cost 1 euro 50. We are managing to ask for a lot more in french now so it is quite exciting.




It was always a welcome site to see a small restaurant alongside the canal with somewhere to stay overnight.


It was with some trepidation we passed under the small bridges and the Malpass Tunnel cut out of the rock, they seemed very low but we had plenty of room.












We passed over a viaduct where the canal is within a bridge over a river running underneath.















Every day we would wake up wondering what delights would transpire as we made our way along the canal.


Any frustrations we had by living in a very small space, by not knowing enough of the language would disappear as a beautiful little village or field of poppies came in to view.



Soon we reached Carcasonne with a magnificent castle up on the hill overlooking the new town.


On our journey we have met many other travellers who own their boats, a pleasant time is spent talking over where they have been and what there is to see along the way.

Sadly it was time to say Au revoir to Trapani and Oliver and continue on to visit Spain then home. We were hooked on canal travel and knew it was only a matter of time and money before we would be back.



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May 2002 - River Saone - River Rhone

St Jean de Losne to Arles







Our adventures started in 2002 when Oliver asked us if we would like to take a trip in his canal boat in France. Well, would we ever!!!! Our knowlwdge of the French language was almost non existant except for bonjour, s'il vous plait and merci, but that didn't stop us.


May 2002 we left in Trapani which was moored in the H20 Marina ( called Port de Plaisance) in St Jean de Losne about 20 km from Dijon. Our journey was to take us down the Saone River to Lyon then onto the Rhone River to Arles. From Arles we took the Canal Du Rhone a Sete, across the Etang de Thau and into the canal du Midi.


It was quite exciting being on the river and going through the big locks. The largest we went through was a lift of 25 metres. The locks are serviced by the VNF organisation (Vois Navigables de France)and a yearly permit called a vignette is purchased which allows the use of almost all navigable rivers and canals in France which covers about 8000 kilometres.




















Our journey took us through towns and villages as the river was the princpal way of travel and commerce from the time of the Romans. We visited as many towns and villages as possible along the way and had a great time visiting historical sights as well as having delicious meals in small village restaurants.



It is very exciting waiting to see what we will pass next,


a town with fabulous tromp l'oeil




a small village with wonderful pathways



a Roman archeological sight




a ruined castle


An historical town like Avignon.



So much history, such fantastic scenery and yummy meals.


We arrived in Arles on a lovely sunny day and moored right in town alongside the river quay. I really like Van Gogh's paintings and after seeing them in the Musee de Orsay I could see why Van Gogh liked to paint here. We walked to all the sights that Van Gogh painted, the Pont still looks the same and the cafe has been kept close to the original painting.