Holland 4 - Princinhof to Kuikhorne

Now it is getting close to the finish of our 2009 trip and it’s time to turn towards Kuikhorne where Gitty and Hans Moses have a very good marina called Eibersnest, they also speak English which is good for us. We left the boat there last year and were very happy.

DRACHTEN
From Stavoren we travelled across the Heegermeer to the Princes Margriet Canal, the major route North East. We reached Grou and turned off into the Pikmeer lake area and then up the Monniken Ee to Drachten as we needed to organise our train fare.

In Drachten we caught a bus to Groningen train station and bought our tickets with seniors and summer discount. We will be able to take a train leaving 9am from Veenwouden, 2k from Kuikhorne to Leeuwarden, then an intercity train to Rotterdam and then the High Speed Train to Paris Nord then to Charles De Gaulle Airport and arrive at the airport at 5.30pm.

PRINCINHOF
Now it is back to the boat and we cruised up to the Alde Feanen National Park and the Princenhof, a beautiful lake and channel area created from the days when Turf was dug and transported heating. The turf was dug out down to the sand level and created the marshy channels, the areas of deeper blue is where storms washed away the land in between the channels and created the lake areas which often have small islands. You can see from the pink lines on the map above over the next few days we crisscrossed the area. The red dots you can see are the Marrekrite moorings dotted all around the water edges and on island in the lakes.

The orange flag below is purchased for 10 euro from the Marrekrite non profit organisation who build and caretake the free Marrekrite moorings found all over Friesland.

Some are pontoons where you can’t get off of the pontoon onto land and others are grassed moorings which are nice for a longer stay. Usually the stay is for a maximum of 3 days and rubbish removal is also supplied but no water or power. The rubbish containers are removed by a very good system by barge and we were lucky enough to see one in action at one of our moorings. Each mooring has an identifying number and this can be used in case of a medical emergency so you can be found easily.





As we cruised down the channel to the lakes we saw a farmer moving to his paddocks on the other side of the channel, a bit different to driving the truck around the farm he needs a barge to move from field to field.

We had various types of scenery for our overnight stays and it is wonderfully serene. On this mooring we had a tree view and were fortunate to see fishermen come and check their nets in the morning. We have seen these fish netting poles all over Holland and it was good to see the action.





One of our night stays was on a pontoon mooring surrounded by rushes, thank goodness we had the mosi screen up so we had a good nights sleep. This is the view from our windows.




Time for breakfast or is it brunch, we usually don’t get up until 9.30 ish.

One day we went through this narrow channel and into a lake where kids were learning to sail.


Cruising along the outside channel of the Princenhof to another lake are we came across these homes what a great position they have.


Back down another channel and time for lunch and a swim. We passed this ferry used for taking people and bikes across the channel.

We stopped here for lunch along the side of the lake, each boat seen here is on a long pontoon suitable for about 20 boats. I think it must be busy here on weekends and holidays to have such a lot of room.

After lunch we go on to find a nice overnight stop. This family is doing it the hard way paddling across the lake with the kids having fun trailing behind.

We turned left down this little channel which is suitable for 1 metre depth. As it started to get more and more narrow I wondered what would happen if a boat came the other way.


As we came out onto the lake 2 small boats were coming into the channel, did we miss a sign saying one way only? !!!

Out to the lake and across to the island ahead.

We found a wonderful overnight stop on this mooring in the shade of the trees. A small boat come came by selling fish and icecreams, so it was fresh blackberries courtesy of Kevin and Magnums for dessert.

Next morning the garbage barge with a compactor pulled up to empty the bin. What a wonderful service.
EARNWALD
Leaving late we cruised into Earnwald the village on the edge of the Princinhof as we needed to charge the batteries, get some water and visit the Skutsje Museum. We tied up at the marina just down the road from the museum and asked if we could buy water and power while we visited the museum. They only charged 2 euro so the batteries got charged while we enjoyed ourselves at the museum.

We joined in a tour through the boat house, all in dutch but very entertaining and some great photos also.

The photos of the old Skutsje and the woman made me happy I wasn’t a boat owners wife in those days




These show the Skutsje racing, they are around 45 ton and 20 metres long. It was very exciting when we saw them racing on Langweer last year. They were originally made of wood but have been built from steel since 1900.


Diana and Arthur Dixon visited here a few months ago when they were building a Skutsje in the traditional way from wood. Volunteers have taken 5 years to build it and it was launched a few days before we arrived, I am looking forward to seeing their photos.

It was interesting seeing the patterns for the parts of the boat when they searched for the right shaped Oak trees in Denmark large enough for the ribs.



This Skutsje is called Aebelina built from plans of the 1861 Aebelina, shorter than the modern Skutsje as the locks in the 1800’s were shorter than they are today.



Time to go back to the lakes for the night and what a beautiful spot we found.
It was very hot so Kevin went in for a swim with his crocs on as it was only a little over 1 metre deep and the bottom was very muddy. Not for me, so fortunately just a little after the frantic floundering on the wall I got the camera and took the photo of Mr Beached Whale as he climbed out .

We met a lovely couple Betty and Ysrand here who gave us a history lesson about Friesland and answered all of the questions we had been wanting to ask someone. In the evening we were entertained by 6 hot air balloons floating in the distance.

Paradise always has a little demon and ours was the presence of the European Wasp, every time we got any food out, around they came for a visit. They seem to be all over, as this year we have had the same problem in any province we have visited. I guess the hot weather has increased the population The electronic swat is worth the 3 euro we paid for it and Kevin has become a very good hunter. I am glad we have been able to keep them out of Western Australia so far. It is a pity we can’t take an electronic swat home.


Next morning we walked around the little island making sure we kept to the path as it was marshy in the centre. There were lovely wildflowers along the way.




We left and travelled through the little village of Warten to Leeuwarden. A storm is brewing so we will stay put there tonight then go to Dokkum then back to Kuikhorne. You will notice the flag pole with the Ausralian flag on the front, in case you have wondered it is our measuring pole for the height of the small bridges which don’t open like the one you see here. We have 10 cm clearance so if this touches we have to quickly back off.

We had a big storm last night, very strong winds with thunder, lightning and heavy rain. From what we were told later it had been experienced all over Holland.

It was calm in the morning and back to nice warm summer weather so we travelled to Dokkum, on the way we saw these cute duck houses. What a lot of trouble someone has gone to.


Next stop was Dokkum to sort out our Lyca Mobile sim cards. They have changed providers to Vodaphone and we need to make sure the same system applies, using Lyca we can call Australia for 9 euro cents a minute to a fixed phone and can talk Lyca to Lyca for 18 euro cents for 15 minutes in Holland. As most of the Aussies have Lyca it is a good way to catch up cheaply. Also we can keep the same number and as long as we recharge within 9 months so it suits us perfectly.

Kevin went to the Motor shop for filters etc and came back with a new toy, a battery load tester and a hydrometer to check the batteries, so it was into the hole to check things out. The diagnosis was two batteries a little sick and fatigued and one is on the danger list.

At the VVV tourist bureau we got a Kabel Noord card for using the internet, you can buy cards for1 hr, 4 hours or 1 day, it is a good system and can be used anywhere in the harbour area.

After 4 months away we are starting to dream of what we are missing back in Aus, of course one of the things we don’t miss is the winter, having Spring and Summer twice a year is a great way to go.

We are missing the children and the grandchildren and doing family things with them. We miss our friends and having an easy conversation over a beer or wine. If we lived closer it would be wonderful to go home to see the kids and then come back.

We are starting to dream of using lots of hot water for a shower and no timers. Our shower on the boat is great and outputs plenty of water but water is usually limited to us being able to fill the tank often enough and the showers in the harbours are always timed so it is a rush to make sure you are not standing at the finish of your 50 cents still covered in soap.

We are also dreaming of a nice easy chair in front of the television. We don’t miss the tele as we have the laptop and DVD’s if we want to watch a movie. Maybe it is more peaceful not knowing of the problems around the world, but it would be nice to have some world news sometime or the weather report to see what the weather is for the next few days.

We miss walking into a supermarket and recognising what product we are looking for straight away, rather than having to translate a picture or a few words. Kevin is always busy trying out the different beers, cheese and chocolate and the labels are no worry to him but he is looking forward to an Emu Bitter.

My lettuce and herbs are just about finished for the season, once again they have been fantastic having them fresh for our salads. The Marigolds and Lobelia are still flowering after 3 months but I do miss the garden at home.


However, when we look out the front and back of our boat where we are moored here in Dokkum between the two windmills it reminds us of how much we love wondering where we will be and what we will see and who we will meet the next day.

For now it is back to Kuikhorne to pack up Courlis, pack and repack the bags and head for home and start the planning for 2010.

Bye for now

Holland 3 - Joure to Stavoren - Friesland

Joure to Stavoren
We arrived in Akkrum at the end of Sneek Week, ( a week long yacht racing festival which is a huge attraction for all of boating Holland) we were in Sneek last year and had a lot of fun.
After the quiet of the turf route it was quite a shock. The train bridge was opening and closing and boats were milling around every where (it is quite a site with the train lines on a turntable ) and after the train bridge was another opening bridge to wait for.

We cruised down the side of the Sneekermeer and into the channel leading to Joure.
JOURE
Arriving in Joure we found it very busy but found a nice mooring on the grassy area inside the harbour opposite the Orangerie which has very nice meals.
We were pleased to find Irene and Jan here again, we met Irena last year and once again it is a small world, Irena’s brother Henk lives in Perth and we met him and Marietta when we went back last year, we have some good photos to take back to Henk.

We stayed a few days as we wanted to visit the Museum which we missed last year. It is very interesting as Joure used to be the centre of the Clockmaker industry and Brass moulding and the Dowe Egbert Tea, Coffee and Tobacco factory. There are still three clockmaking businesses and the Dowe Egbert Coffee manufacturing in town, you can smell coffee when they are roasting.

The museum is a collection of buildings which used to be the brass foundry, and the Dowe Egbert warehouse. In the foyer of the museum we saw these old machines which were used by Dowe Egbert Coffee and tea makers to put tea and labels on the tea bags and to pack tea bags in cartons. We got a nice packet of herbal teas to take home. Museum

Kevin was interested in the brass foundry as there were the original moulds for making brass fittings and decorations for the clocks as well household brass such as drawer handles. I thought they were just artistic trays of pretty shapes until he showed me the racks of pattern trays and the finished articles. I suppose it was a nice change for him after visiting all of the Schlosses in Germany.



There were also a clockmakers workshop and many beautiful clocks.


We had a lovely dinner with Max and Geertje whom we also met last year and lots of fun trying to get the camera working on automatic and then running back for the photo. This one was the best we could get, I must have more practice. Kevin visited the factory where Max works as they build large buses.

While here we took a bus to Herenveen Train station to organise our train trip from Leeuwarden which is near where we leave the boat, to Rotterdam and then to Paris. The fare could be done on the net but to get the over 65 discount and holiday discount we needed to do it in person. Unfortunately we were told we would need to go to Leeuwarden about a 100 k away, so off we went there in the bus, however, once there we were told it could only be arranged in Groningen so we went back to Joure in our 2 hour ticket allotment. In Friesland during the school holidays they have a special where you can travel anywhere for two hours for 2 euro so it is a good way to see the countryside. Also in Summer a discount for travel is available.

STAVOREN
After a four days we left to travel to Stavoren on the Ijsselmeer as it was a town we hadn’t visited.

We have had wonderful summer, and for the last three weeks Friesland has had incredible weather without any rain. After travelling through many lakes each of them with sailing schools out with students in small yachts of all sizes and colours, they looked like colourful dragon flies darting about.

We arrived in Stavoren and were fortunate to find a little spot for Courlis right in the town with lovely grass and a backdrop of trees.


Stavoren has one of Friesland’s large pumping stations with 6 huge electric pumps which sends the water out into the Ijsselmeer when the level gets too high after a lot of rain.

This view has all the elements of Holland it is only missing the traditional windmill.
Ellen and Jan came over in their car from Hardervijk to visit us and have a BBQ. It was really fun, Ellen was born in Australia but came back when she was 4 yrs old, Jan says she still doesn’t sound really Dutch and we say it is because she learnt the best language first, none of those funny rrrrrr’s or throaty noises for us Australians.
Stavoren is a sailors paradise with lakes on one side and the Ijsselmeer on the other. The Stavoren C Class won the 2009 Skutsje race and we were invited to their prizegiving night it was good fun.

Wherever you look there are yacht masts, a good place to pick out what type of sailing boat you would like. This harbour had about 300 yachts and is one of five in the area as well as the town harbour where there are 30 or more big sailing barges.
View from our boat around part of the town harbour.

Of course it is not hard to find us we are one of a kind up here.


While we were here we took the Ferry across to Enkhuizen on the other side of the Ijsselmeer and while waiting we spoke to this couple going on holiday with their little baby in this bicycle buggy with his baby capsule on top of the camping gear and mum on her bicycle with full packs on the back. I suppose by now you can see I am fascinated with the different ways people have of transporting their children at home or when going on holiday when cars aren’t an option. Holland has a bicycle or buggy for all occasions from baby buggy, shopping buggy to touring bike to the wheelchair bicycle seen in the Drente story.


We had a very calm ride on the hour and a half journey across the Ijsselmeer and Kevin almost convinced me we could go across in our boat, until the next day when we were riding around the yacht clubs having a look and it was really windy with very choppy waves out their. No way am I going across.

ENKHUIZEN
We went to Enkhuizen to visit the Zuider Zee Museum, it is a village of about 60 or more houses, shops, a church, warehouses, a fishing village with fishing boat and smoking houses, which are all original and have been transported from towns all around what was the Zuider Zee area and re-erected here. Each of the buildings has a plaque and it is written in english also, which was a real bonus, telling the story of someone who lived in the house and the area the house was from.


It is an incredible site as it is like a real village in Holland with a windmill, cobbled streets, canals, a church, gardens with real vegetables and fruit trees and washing on the line and fields with breeds of sheep and goats from old stock and rabbits and fowls in yards.





In the fishing and smoking shed at the rear of this photo we had smoked herring served hot for 2 euro.

These photos are from houses originally from Urk, one was a house belonging to a widow who took in washing as her husband had died in the big 1883 storm. A young girl acting the part of her daughter was doing the washing and telling her story after the washing was hung across the pathways and the lawn, very authentic. Another house had the woman of the house telling her story as she showed us around the kitchen and cooked some herring.




The broom makers house.

The Cheese warehouse is the white building, yummy samples.



Today in the church in the village there was a wedding and we caught the two flower girls walking into the village.



Finally we called into the fishing wharves to see the net making. They even have an old fishing boat to go on rides.

Then it was time to walk through the town of Enkhuizen and back to the harbour for our trip back to Stavoren.

Holland 2 - Drenthe to Friesland via the Turf Route

TURF ROUTE
Our overnight stops in the small towns along the Drenthe Hoofvaart have been very pleasant, there is usually a small shop nearby, the moorings and water are free, but no power and there is usually a small toilet and shower block.

Today we left Dieverbrug and returned back along the canal to take the Turf Route going west once again. This canal winds its way through small villages where they dug peat in the early days so there are many small lakes and channels. It is one of the few routes where a charge is made of 15 euros which pays for all the small locks and road bridges through towns. Along the way there are many footbridges which have to be opened by the boat owners.

As soon as we turned off the main canal we were greeted by a splash of pink in the fields, I am not sure of what type of flowers they were.

Once again we are reminded of the different farming country in Holland, everthing grows so well, in this one photo we can see crops of flowers, corn, potatoes, sugar beet and a grain crop.

The lock is worked manually by the keeper and it looks hard work.

It is holiday time and the children are out making pocket money by opening the bridges to save the boaters doing it. Very grateful we are too it is .5 euro well spent.
Our first stop is Applescha and the town provides free mooring with coin slot power, they are setting up the market all along the canal on the opposite side to the boat moorings.

While walking through the markets we saw this bike trolley with a retracable front wheel which is used as a pram as well. We also saw another version with a centre wheel.

It was a special bike week in Applescha and we came across these women in costume riding the traditional grandmother bike. They reminded me of when I was a child and the dutch migrants arrived with their big black bikes. The dutch bicycle I took home last year is so comfortable to ride because I can sit up straight on it and the bags on the back are really handy for shopping. Once again I am going home with the resolution again of riding my bike to the shops instead of taking the car.

The children are still out opening bridges for us, this boy has his hat out and no others to have to share the money with. On asking about the bridges, as we thought of the problem for the towns if larrakins left them open, we were told that they are locked overnight and once unlocked in the morning anyone could open them and collect any fees the boaters might want to pay.

At the lock we were not sure if he needs to save water or is going for the record, 8 boats plus the rubber dinghy were squeezed in this small lock 29M long and 5.5M wide.
The area we are passing through is celebrating 700 years of farming.
At the intersection the turf route goes two ways we decided to take the Gorredijk direction.

Soon we came to a bridge with no children bridge openers, so being in front of a few boats Kevin hopped off walked across and opened the bridge, The dutch boats were very surprised that Kevin did not ask to get on the first boat and hop off onto our boat. Once all the boats had gone through I drove through to the next landing and waited for Kevin to close the bridge and we followed after the other boats. At the next bridge which had to be opened we were also very surprised, the first boat opened the bridge which opened the same side then got back on his boat, all the others drove through and left us to pull in and close it. They definitely don’t work on a helping your fellow traveller system here.
Donkerbroek a very small village was our next overnight stop. It has been quite hot especially in the afternoon and the free canalside mooring with water, toilet and showers was excellent with a beautiful line of bushy trees to give shade. The supermarket was a short walk away. We spent the afternoon up in the shade seen at the top left then down by the boat later, what a wonderful little place.

As we followed the boats through this bridge, this little fella broke the string on the clog he holds out just as were about to come through yelling out something in dutch which was probably “Oh! Oh! Wait till I tie it back on! “. We got close enough to give him his money. It is quite a good money spinner for the kids, with six boats he probably collected 3 euro.

People in Holland go to a lot of trouble to make pleasant surrounding outside their houses, we passed this little child statue on the tiny bridge in front of a home. I don’t think it would last long in the city or indeed anywhere in Aus.

As we approach Gorredijk the canal has become very narrow and winds through the fields we wondered if we had lost our way until we saw this little boat ahead and just around the corner we pass a new housing area built right on the water. It is always amazing where we find housing estates which seem out in the middle of nowhere but are connected by a road to the next town.


Next we go back into the wilderness and wonder if we have missed the turn until we see the small boat ahead again.


Finally we came to the last bridge into town. It was closed and we were wondering which protocol we would be using this time. A couple of teenage guys crossed over the bridge and walked on, so the lady in the boat in front was just getting off when a young girl who was just going to cross over also, saw the boats and ran back to open the bridge and make a euro before continuing on.

Gorredijk is a typical town with the houses and shops along each side of the canal. There area lovely canalside moorings alongside a park then it is through the shops and restaurants and out the other end.


Our next stop is Oldeboam, it is hot and we have had the roof back, after tying up on a lovely canalside mooring Kevin decided to go for a swim. Thankfully there is a ladder on the side of the canal so I had a lovely refreshing swim also.

You may have noticed in the photo above the tilt on the church tower, the view at night is magic.

Our mooring is right in town just before the three old cast- iron bridges across the canal and in the morning we pass through these with the bridge keeper riding his bicycle ahead to open each one.




From Aldeboam we leave the small canals and reach Akkrum, we wait two turns at the turning railway bridge, it is the end of Sneek Week Yacht Racing and it is very crowded on the water, quite a shock after being in the quiet of the Turf route.

Holland 1- Back in the Netherlands

Ter Appel - Groningen to Dwingaloo - Drenthe

TER APPEL to VEENDAM
We can see we are back in the Netherlands as we cruise down the Musssel and Stads Canal, the window decorations are all in two’s which seems to be the window decoration for all of the Netherlands.

On this stretch many of the bridges are small pedestrian swing bridges which are worked manually by a travelling lock keeper who also works the larger road bridges and the locks. It is a slow way of travelling as each bridge and lock has to be opened and then closed after we pass through before he gets on his bicycle, moped or car and travels to the next one.




This fella gave us quite a surprise, as we passed by he spat a stream of water, the statue I mean not the man!

We see quite a bit of pipe art like these two fishermen and the bike as we go along.


One should never be in a hurry to arrive at a particular place, we travelled 24 km in 9 hours and then had to stop for a day as they don’t work on Sundays. We had a nice little jetty to moor alongside so it was quite a nice place to have a day of rest and to chat to the locals.

On Monday we cruised through Veendam which has 27 bridges and two locks in 9 km all opened by a young man who rides his bicycle along the canal.

From Veendam we cruised up the Winschoterdiep which was very interesting as we pass by several big shipbuilding yards.


GRONINGEN
After an overnight stop, we arrived in Groningen Motor Boat Club and were met by Russel and Penny in their boat Arcturis with Laurie and Jean who were visiting from Perth, and Bob and Lois in Anemoon. . It was great to get together and we had drinks and a BBQ on Arcturis that night.



We rode around Groningen visiting the town square and the markets


The different old buildings in one place are always interesting.

We visited a lovely garden right in the city with beautiful roses and a walk through arcade of vines.


Inside the arcade

We left Groningen to travel down the Noord Holland canal to Assen to meet Diana and Arthur who had travelled from Herenveen to meet us there.

On the way we passed this barge covered in pots of orange and purple petunias. I think they were having a disagreement on which colour to paint the boat. Do they match the flowers with girl colours or have boy colours.


ASSEN
Russel, Penny, Lois and Bob come in our boat down to Assen for the day to catch up with Diana and Arthur. We took 6.5 hours waiting for bridges to open and to go through the locks to reach Assen and it will take a 30 minute train ride to go back to Groningen.


Assen has a very good new harbour, the facilities are good and it is the least expensive marina we have been in in the Netherlands. The Shops and restaurants are within 100 metres of the harbour.


The weather has been really good and we eat al fresco in the evenings. No doubt about it when travelling by boat you get very friendly with the neighbours both on and off the boat.

We visited a 5 hectare garden right in the heart of Assen called Overcingel which has been the home of the Van Lier Lels family since the 1778. We were told to knock on the door of the main house and we were greeted by the owner who welcomed us to wander in the garden. It is a wild garden with seats nestled in amongst the natural vegetation under Oak trees which are over 300 years old. The beautiful Beech tree in this photo has the branches propped up as they spread out over the garden.

While shopping we spoke to this young couple who had a young baby and had a baby capsule fitted on their bike. When bicycles are the only transport you make the best of it.
We also took this shot of mum, baby and the pusher out shopping.


DIEVER and DWINGELOO
We left Assen and travelled down the Drenthe Hoofvaart to Dieverbrug which is a small town on the canal in between Diever National Park and Dwingeloo National Park.
The moorings are all along the canal side which is very pleasant. It is a great spot for boats and right opposite up by the bridge is a garage which also has a pump on the canal so it is easy to get fuel if needed.

We rode our bikes to Diever to see the very old stone structures like a mini Stonehenge.
On the way we passed a garage sale and I bought a lovely brass pot for my plants. Kevin thought it looked more like a Roman helmet. All big boys are really little boys at heart.

We also stopped to see this Gypsy caravan, there were two in the driveway and the owner came out and showed us the one they were restoring and the one they had finished and used for holidays pulled by a tractor.


After seeing the rocks and talking to a young couple visiting them we rode back into town for lunch.

Soon it was lunchtime and after gazing at the menu, all in dutch of course our choice was very tasty. As we were eating a ‘Gypsy’ caravan similar to the one we saw in the morning went by.


Soon it was time to ride back to the boat and another evening al fresco meal. What good weather we are having.

Next day we rode to Dwingeloo Town and National Park. On the way we saw these sheep which looked like brown and white dogs.

and these cows who looked like they had blankets on their back.

We have been to Innaloo and now Dwingeloo.

We found the tourist bureau called the VVV in Holland and got a map as I wanted to see the heather in flower and this park is well known for its large areas of heather. Next to the VVV we saw these bikes out front. In Holland there is a bike for everyone. And of course leave Arthur and Kevin alone and boys will be boys.



We rode into the Park following bike paths to reach the heather fields which we found out were on the other side of the park. On the way we passed a family having a caravan holiday.


It was very pretty and half way through the forest area we came across this welcome café which was run by solar power and even had a charging point for electric bikes. This year we have noticed a lot of electric bikes in Holland.


Thank goodness I had the battery in my bike as we looked like riding a long way once we realised the map was not to scale.

We had been riding past patches of heather which weren’t very colourful and another bike group told us it was not very good this year as an insect had started to destroy a lot of heather all over Europe this year. Just my luck, riding for kilometres and no heather. Finally we came to a good bit then we headed for the shortest way home.


While we were here the house opposite was getting a new thatch roof, it was interesting watching it progress over the three days.



Next morning Diana and Arthur left heading back to Rotterdam.

And we turned back to the turnoff for the Turf Route, which is a small canal which weaves it way through the old villages and areas where they dug peat in the early days.