Into the Netherlands and on our way to Amsterdam

Into the Netherlands the Meuse River changes to the Maas.

We entered the Netherlands where the Meuse changes to the Maas River through the huge Lannaye lock which is 136 M long and 16M wide and looks like the grand canyon when you are sitting at the bottom of it. As there seemed to be a queue of barges, Kevin moored the boat and went to hand our papers in from our travel through Belgium and the lock master said to go in the lock first then the largest barge waiting would follow. In a previous lock we had done the same with a huge 11.5 M wide and 110M long barge behind us in a 136M lock. Usually barges go in first then small boats, but we noticed as the boats came out of the lock that the small boats were up front.

Following instructions we entered the lock along with an English couple on ‘Beats Working’ we had been meeting along the way and moved to the front of the canyon. Half way into this manoeuvre the lock master came out to tell us to back out as the barge wanted to come in first. This was done with the barge breathing fire and brimstone at the mouth of the lock while we scurried along like little mice to get out, and, of course I was having a heart attack as I had been balancing out front ready to attach our ropes.

Back in again after the barge, ‘Beats Working’ got to a floating bollard and managed to tie up. We got caught in the barge prop wash before we could tie up and as we were trying to get back to the wall a small speedboat with inebriated driver and passengers drove between us and the bollard we were heading for. Kevin just kept driving forward while I was yelling obscenities at them while balancing out front and they decided it was best to get out of our way. Kevin came out to help tie up and made use of all the rude aussie words he knew. The lock doors closed and we rose up the 13.5 metres.

Needless to say, I don’t have any photos of this lock, but I do have of the one before with Kevin hoping to hell that the Barge knew when to stop.

Maastricht is the first big city we stay in. It is very strange being in a city where we have no idea of the written or spoken language, although it seems hallo is universal. We are able to moor alongside a wall just inside the river where the barges are passing, which gives a bit of shelter. The town is opposite our moorings and a chandlery was in a barge opposite, where we could get fuel and charts for the next part of our trip to Amsterdam. One of the problems we face, is that in France the chart booklets were written in French, English and German, here the charts are only in the dutch language. While here we managed to buy a Netherlands sim for the mobile, look around town and stock up on food.

We follow the Maas or a canal alongside, through countryside full of lakes. Our next town was Maasbracht and we have had no further trouble negotiating the locks which are growing longer, they are now 142 M long. Most of the route is commercial with huge ships going both ways carrying huge loads, but with a wide river like the Maas we can get out of their wash OK.

Making our way to Amsterdam

As we approached Nijmegan, Kevin decided we would make our route to Amsterdam via the River Waal which is a tributary of the Rhine. After being convinced that as it was Sunday and hardly any boats would be going along it I agreed. I quickly found out the Waal is a huge river with huge ships even if it was Sunday and the current was running at about 6k, Courlis sailed along at 16.5k an hour. We hugged the side to keep out of the way, Kevin is very competent and did not worry at all, so I did enough of that for the two of us.

This pusher pushed 3barges long x 2 wide.


A huge tanker passing by.
There were lots of other boats but I was too busy hanging on!!

From the Waal we turned into the Amsterdam Rhine canal and had a good run down. As it was late we decided to pull into an overnight mooring area just off the Amsterdam Rhine canal on the Lek canal which to us on the chart looked like a quieter canal. Wrong again!!! Our new experiences were building up quickly.

No sooner had it turned dark and we were getting ready for bed, a huge pusher barge minus anything to push came down the canal at a about 20kph. The canal sides here are steel shutters which don’t allow the wave action to calm down and we bounce off the wall as they keep coming back for what seems like hours( probably 30 minutes). It was the worst time we have had in the boat, Kevin was outside and nearly got thrown off the side, I was inside and and got knocked over along with the glasses of wine we were just going to enjoy at the end of an exciting day.

The rest of the night was spent with barges passing us and the boat rocking and rolling. I spent the night jumping up each time I heard a barge coming ready to abandon ship. At daybreak, once there was enough light we quickly untied and made a break for it before another barge came to terrorise me. I think the night was even enough for Kevin to decide that we should be more careful where we pull up for the night.

Paradise at last

What an enchanted paradise we found as we turned into a small canal called the Vecht. This was our first experience of how much people here use every bit of space. All along the way we pass houseboats permanently moored on the side of the canal with just enough space for boats to pass through.




As we travel along there are many picturesque small bridges we need to pass through. At the first one we were wondering what to do and then saw the button at the side and Hey Presto the bridge opened.



As you pass through a clog is lowered down into which we pay a donation unless there is a set fee written on the side of the bridge.


We wind our way through small villages and lakes and get excited on seeing our first windmill.

Soon we were seeing windmills with all sorts of variations.

Some are part of very fancy houses,

some out on the side of the lake


and still others in the villages.